Summer Maintenance

Your house needs maintenance in summer too! 
Here’s some items to get ahead on so they don’t ruin your barbecue.

Inside:

• Windows and doors: Check seals and weatherproofing strips; clean windows and screens. Maybe now is a good time to replace old leaky windows!
• Cooling system: Get someone in to do a cleaning and tune-up and find any necessary repairs before they take you by surprise during a heat wave. If you have a forced-air system, now’s the time to replace air filters too.
• Dryer: While you’re at it, get out there and clean out the dryer duct -- lint can build up and block the airflow, making your dryer have to work harder and take longer than it needs to.
• Bathrooms: Check/clean/replace caulk and tiles as needed, and vacuum out those dusty exhaust fan grills.

Outside:

• House exterior: do a visual check for termite or other pest damage -- if you find any, get a professional in to do repairs and stop the infestation.
• Gutters: clean them out and replace those leaky downspouts!
• Yard: trim away any branches or shrubbery near your roof and gutters.
• Pool: Time to have your pool or spa serviced by a professional service and have water condition checked -- don’t spend your summer getting your pool clear instead of swimming in it.

And, of course -- change those smoke alarm batteries!

Winter home maintenance

A winter house maintenance note.  Check the outside of your house to be sure the following are not being blocked by snow, as applicable, which may cause the associated appliance to operate inefficiently or not at all.  Clothes dryer, boiler/furnace intake and exhaust, generators, heat pumps, gas line pressure regulator, rain gutters and downspouts.

A Cleaner Cleaner :)

If your clothes washing machine has a build up of minerals and soap scum that has left your clothes looking less than clean, read this Yahoo article for a simple and inexpensive method to take care of it. 

Baby it's cold outside!

With a forecast low of -2` tonight, and -11` for Monday night, please keep in mind to check on family, friends, and neighbors who may need some assistance in keeping warm, and keeping mechanicals working.  If someone you know has frozen or burst pipes, or other needs due to the cold, please call us, we can help.

Copper Plumbing

 Copper piping has been around for a long time because it has some very favorable qualities when installed correctly.  It used to be relatively inexpensive, easy to install and durable.  Copper piping is not perfect though, and is prone to weakening and failure due to high acid (low pH) content of water.  Another source of failure is improper installation and sweating of the pipe joints.  Green corrosion on a pipe is caused by the oxidation of the copper itself.  It can be caused by a water leak, or not cleaning the pipe properly after using an acid flux to sweat the joint.  White build up at a joint can be a sign of calcification of the joint left behind by a very slow leak or external condensation, the use of a poor quality solder, or zincification (corrosion of a brass fitting).  In general, copper pipe joints should not exhibit either green or white corrosion like the picture on the left, but should be neat and clean like the picture on the right.  If you have copper piping that doesn't look healthy, you may want us to inspect them to be safe.

Winterize Now

You may not want to think about it, but winter is just around the corner.  There are several things that you should take care of to be sure your home or business is winter ready.  See our previous post for ideas-> WINTER READY.  Call us today for all your home and business winter preparation needs.

Summer time is Deck time

Now that the snow is off your deck, you may see that the winter and years of use may have been a bit harsh on it.  Decks are like teeth, ignore them and they'll go away.  Maintain and restore your deck with a professional quality powerwashing and restaining like this deck pictured.

Email or call today to arrange for a free estimate on new deck construction, expansion, or renovation; or a deck safety and maintenance check with cleaning and restaining. 

Water Damage Restoration

According to the site costhelper.com, typical water damage clean-up and reconstruction costs from a burst water pipe can cost anywhere from $5000 to $70,000 or more, with an average insurance claim being about $15,000.  It is important to remember that whether an insurance company may be paying none, part, or all of the restoration bill, it is up to you to be sure you have a reliable company do the clean-up and a reputable contractor do the reconstruction, so that you get prompt, quality service and the end-product restoration that you paid for.  You paid for insurance for a reason, to restore to original, it is worth making sure it is done correctly.  If you don't have insurance, it is just as critical to be sure the job is done well.  When you or someone you know has an unfortunate need of a water-damage claim, contact Kallatch Home Services LLC to help with the reconstruction process.  If you have a water damage emergency in the Monroe County area, first turn off the water supply, then call us and we will have an associate of Paul Davis Emergency Services respond to your home or property in less than one-hour; or call directly at 570-402-2300.

Deck Check

Signs of spring!  It is time to consider getting your deck in shape for the coming barbeque and outdoor relaxing season.  A safety check / inspection, maintenance and repairs, cleaning, powerwashing, restaining will all add years of service to your deck.  An average modest deck requires $200 - $500 years of maintenance and service annually.  The same average deck costs approximately $5000 to $8000 to rebuild.   Like most everything else, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.  Don't have a deck, but have been thinking about how nice it would be to have one?  We can take care of that too.  Contact us today to arrange an inspection and service for your deck before the summer season is here, or an estimate on a new deck.

Winter Ready!

Here are a few of the home (and business) perennial maintenance items that should be considered in December if you have not already done so:
Deck and lawn furniture and decorations stored
De-icing cables inspected and ready to plug in
Drain lawn sprinkler systems
Emergency Generator serviced and ready to run
Energy savings devices such as programmable thermostats and lighting timers installed
Exterior doors and garage door seals fit tight, replace as needed
Exterior door locks lubricated with anti-freeze lubricant
Exterior hose bibs drained and hoses drained and stored
Exterior lighting in good working order
Flashlights with fresh batteries / charged
Fire / Smoke alarms tested, batteries checked / replaced
Gutters and downspouts clear of debri, attached well
Heater / Boiler Serviced by reputable technician
Ice Melt / Anti-slip compounds and snow shovels available and accessible
Insulation barrier over skuttle holes and pull-down stairs
Snowblower serviced and ready to run
Storm doors and windows in place

Ready for winter

Now is the time to begin the process of preparing your home and business for winter.  Storm doors, chimney repairs, deck repairs and restaining, heater service, and many other home and business maintenance repair needs should be scheduled soon.

Understanding Paint, Stain, and Urethane Coatings

GENERAL
• The real difference in the price of paint is two-fold. How well it goes on and hides imperfections (applicability), and how many times you can wash it or how well it withstands weathering (durability). You get what you pay for.
• Temperature and humidity greatly influence a paint or stains drying time, but most modern paints can be “recoated” in 2-4 hours.
• Color matched paints and solid stains will be close in color and sheen to the original, but an exact match cannot be guaranteed, even when using the same brand of paint.
• Fading and sun bleaching of painted surfaces may cause paint "patches" to stand out considerably from the surrounding old paint, even when using the "original" paint. It is costly, but possible to attempt to color match the “faded” aspects of the old paint; or repainting the entire affected surface may be desirable.
• Staining of wood with translucent stains has many variables, the most significant is the wood itself.  The cut, grain direction and density of the wood varies in each piece, affecting how the wood will appear when stained.
• Modern paints and stains will dry to the touch in a few hours, but will still bond to any item placed on or against them, and peel off when the item is moved. It may take as long as 30 days for a paint or stain to fully “cure.”
• Most oil-based products have been replaced with water-based products. The new water-base products are “as good as” or in some case better than their oil-based counterparts. Most new water-based products can be used over properly prepared oil-base products.
• Water-based urethanes can be safely used over oil-based wood stains.
• Oil-based products may be required only in cases of extreme exposure conditions.
• Lead-based paints where eliminated from public use on 1/1/1978.
• Work disturbing painted surfaces of Pre-1978 dwellings or child-occupied facilities requires new EPA standards to be followed by contractors, and are highly recommended for Do-It-Yourselfers as well.

PORCHES, DECKS, STAIRS
• Staining a piece of pressure-treated (PT) wood on all it’s surfaces should be avoided when possible. Moisture trapped inside the wood will escape by blistering or peeling the stain surface.  Painting PT wood is not recommended.
• 48 – 72 hours should be allowed before walking on freshly painted or stained surfaces. 
• 7-10 days is recommended before placing heavy furniture or other items on freshly painted porch or deck surface, so that the paint or stain does not “cure” to the bottom of the item, and peel loose when the item is moved.
• 30 days should be allowed for freshly painted porch and deck surfaces to adequately cure before washing.
• New concrete or mortar surfaces require a minimum of 30 days to  cure before they are painted or sealed. Preferably longer.
· Most painted or stained deck and porch surfaces made of pressure-treated wood, no matter how well originally applied or reapplied, will need to be resurfaced in 3 – 5 years, depending on use, exposure, and maintenance. Some may last as little as two years.
• An annual maintenance and safety check, and cleaning/recoating with the proper product(s) can significantly increase the life-span of a deck or porch.

Energy Conscious Remodeling

Old windows may account for 25-50% of a home or buildings net energy loss.  Modern windows, with argon gas and special glazings may actually produce a net energy gain in a home or building by reducing heat loss in the winter; and minimizing passive solar heat gain in the summer, thereby increasing your cooling systems efficiency.  Getting the proper windows, and having them installed properly is paramount to realize this energy and money saving potential.  The proper windows, installed correctly, will truly "pay for themselves" in the long-term.  Quality new windows can also reduce condensation buildup, lessen carpet and furniture fabric fading due to sunlight, reduce the run-cycle, and thereby increase the longevity of heating and cooling systems, reduce drafts and improve comfort, and have a generally improved aesthetic value while increasing the value of your home or property.  When you see a billboard add for new windows installed for $169 each, you can bet you aren't getting any of the above.  If you are thinking about new windows in 2010 while the energy-tax credit is still available, contact us today for a free consultation.

Ice Damage

It is the time of year that the freeze thaw cycle of warmer days and cold nights still well below freezing can cause significant damage.   Melting snow that runs down a warm roof hits the colder eaves (colder because they are not over a heated living space) and freezes.  As the amount of ice builds up, the water running down the roof can build up or dam, and push its way back under the shingles and into the house or down through the eaves or outside walls.  Roof valleys can be particulary troublesome.  Another place ice build up can create problems is in rain gutters and downspots for similar reasons.  There are several ways to prevent or counteract icing damage potential; important in the arsenal is regular observation of potential trouble areas and deal with problems as they occur before they become bigger problems.

Formaldehyde and Indoor Air

Formaldehyde is found in most homes in the U.S., usually at levels that cause little concern, but acute high levels, or long-term exposure of moderate levels of formaldehyde in indoor air have been attributed to a variety of health risks from asthma like respiratory irritation, flu like symptoms, to forms of cancer. A recent example of this was the contamination of the air in the FEMA trailers after Hurricane Katrina. Formaldehyde traditionally has been used as a preservative and disinfectant. It is now used in the production of numerous materials, including glues and adhesives which are used to hold together wood products such as particle board and MDF (medium-density fiberboard). These materials are often used to make cabinets, shelves, furniture, moldings, and countertop substrates. These materials if not encapsulated in a laminate or other covering may release significant amounts of formaldehyde into the air in your home. Many other building materials, including fiberglass insulation are also produced with formaldehyde. These products are often of a lesser quality, but not always. As a response to many of the health concerns, manufacturers are now producing materials and products that are low-emission or “formaldehyde free.” When having any home improvement done that may utilize these types of materials, inquire about the potential formaldehyde exposure risk. Often a better grade of material will be a worthwhile health option.  To learn more about formaldehyde and how to limit your indoor exposure, you may wish to read this CDC and this Canadian article.

Too Airtight?

An airtight house, as opposed to a drafty house, is often thought desireable to conserve heat and energy.  Home weatherization programs often work to "seal" or block as much outside air from infiltrating around doors, windows, and other areas as much as possible.  Many do not realize that a house can be "too" airtight.  An "average" house may have an air exchange rate of about five (5) times per day.  This means that each day, the air in the house would be completely exchanged with fresh outside air five times.  A lot of heat may be lost, but fresh air is added.  A house that is too airtight can create problems of its' own such as concentrations of stale or polluted air (indoor air quality is usually poorer than outdoor air), oxygen depletion, and moisture rention which may lead to mold and mildew growth.  Newer homes that are built to minimize air infiltration rely on mechanical ventilation, air filtration, and dehumidification systems to make up for what the "drafty" old house did naturally.  New commercial building requires that 20% of the air circulating through the system must be fresh outside air.  The cost of operating and maintaining these additional mechanical systems must be accounted for in determining the houses overall energy consumption picture.  Energy conservation is important, but realize that air exchange is very important as well.

Electric Circuit Breaker Maintenance

Most homes now have an electric service panel to distribute electricity to the home.  The purpose of circuit breakers in the panel are to detect a current overload, and shut the circuit off (break the circuit) to prevent overheating and fire. Current overload is generally caused by a short circuit (faulty wiring, outlet, or appliance), or too many appliances being used on the same circuit at the same time.  Circuit breakers should be maintained yearly by "cycling" each breaker off and on five(5) times.  (Be sure that sensative electronic equipment and computers or turned off during this process.)  This will keep the movable parts within the circuit breaker "free" so it may operate correctly when called upon to do so by a current overdraw.  The breaker should cycle freely and crisply.  It is also good to check for signs of overheating in the panel itself by placing your hand on the breakers feeling for excess heat, (breakers in use may normally be warm) and also looking for any discoloration on the surface of the breakers or panel box itself, that may indicate overheating.  Do not remove the front panel of the box itself, there is a risk of electrocution.  If you find any abnormalities, call a licensed electrician immediately to check and correct the situation.  A circuit breaker that is not working properly is a potential fire hazard.

The Home Energy Saver On-line Calculator

The Home Energy Saver website is designed for the residential home owner to evaluate ways they can save energy at home.   The site and its' on-line home energy savings calculator were developed by the  Lawrence Berkley National Laboratory in cooperation with the Department of Energy.  It has a large volume of information regarding energy use and savings, and indicates it is the "first web-based do-it-yourself energy audit tool."   Check it out, even one good tip may provide useful.  There is also a link under "Website Links."

Ice Melt

Considering most people in our area are dealing with ice in one way or another, I found a good article that answers 20 questions about ice melt products.  The old stand-by is of course "rock salt" or Halite, which is mostly Sodium Chloride.  This is the same salt you have on your kitchen table, in an unsanitary form.  It is the cheapest to buy pound for pound, but not necessarily the cheapest to use.  This is because other salt (chloride containing compounds) products may deliver more heat when applied to an icy surface, so you may use less to get the desired result.  Also, different products will work in colder temperatures than others.  Different products now offer blends of several salts to get the benefits of each, such as lower working temperature, longer lasting heat, and less harmful to plants.  A problem with  many ice melt products is their potential to "burn" the grass and shrubbery around the area of use.  Heavy and repeated applications of ice melt products can also damage the surface they are placed on, particularly concrete.  Some concrete surfaces may "pop" or "defoliate" due to the sudden application of heat and quick refreezing.   Some people get around that problem by using either sand or grit to make the ice less slippery, and the sand or grit will not harm you lawn or shrubs. For more info, you might check out the article, (Click Here). Either way, be safe out there, especially when applying the product.  Safety glasses and gloves are recommended, and don't slip on the ice you are trying to melt.